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NIAaAHA FALLS 




1 1, 1, ® s w ■«, ji, w 1 ® 

WITH A 

KT 3E3 -OT- HVL -A. 

AND VIEWS OF THE FALLS. 




.^ 



1853. 

HACKSTAFF'S 
NEW GUIDE BOOK 

GP 

NIAGARA FALI^S. 




ILLUSTRATED WITH A 

NEW MAP AND VIEWS OP THE FALLS. 



NIAGARA FALLS : 

J'UBLISnED BY W, E, TUNIS & CO, 

18557" 






HzHhf 



TO THE READER 



We present to strangers a new Hand-Book of tLr- 
Falls, being a concise Directory to the manv interest- 
ing places in this yicinitj. 

Tliis compilation we believe to be foil and com 
prehensive. We have avoidsd giving any laborer' 
descriptions of the Falls, or of the different scene • 
around, becan^e snch are to be found every where; 
and we think, too, that every one who visits this land 
of "many wonders"' can himself best comprehend 
and describe the objects presented. 

Captain Basil Hail remarks, " All parts of Ni- 
agara are on a scale TrMeh baSes every attempt ot 
the imagination, and it were ridicnlons therefire, to 
think of describing it; the ordinary means of des- 
cription, I mean analogy, and direct comparison, 
with things which are most accessible, fail entirelj* 
in the case of that amazing cataract, which is alto- 
gether nnione." 

"All the pictEresyon may see," say J, J. And- 
nboo, " all the descriptions yon may read, of thes » 
mighty falls, can only produce in your mind the faint 
irlimmer of the glow worm, compared with the over- 
powering glory 



ADVICE TO riBlTOR^, 



Much of tlie beauty and gra/iyf^ur of tlie scenery 
at the Falls is lost by not viewmg them at different 
points at seasonable hours. 

The proper time on the American side and Iris- 
Island, is in the morning^ from 8 to half past 11; oe? 
the British side in the evening^ from 1 to half past 5. 

The reason is obvious. In each case the spectator 
has the sun in rear, while its splendid reflections are 
painted in front. The overpowering glare of lighfi 
and heat is thus avoided, and the eye reposes with 
an open gaze, without pain or effort, on the gorgeous- 
{?cene. 

This advice is designed particularly for those wha 
remain long enough with us to be able to follow it at 
their leisure. Those who hasten away at the ring- 
ino; of the first car bell, leave us with but faint im- 
pressions of the wonder->s and beauties of Niagara in 
the season of their grandeur, when flowers and 
shrmbs and foliage are in their priijse, and ail the air 
is filled with aroma, and the sweet musics of birds — 
for here are to be found exotics and strange birds 
whi-ch seem to gather from afar to pay their .hQijiag.e 
at this august shrine of nature.. 



TABLE OF DISTANCES. 



From Ferry landing to Chippawi, - - 3 Miles 

From Fort Schlosser across to Chippewa, - 3 " 

Across the River at the Falls, . - - 3-4 " 

To Goat Island by the Bridge, . . - 58 Rods 

Across the Falls on the American side, - 56 '= 

Across the foot of Goat Island, - - - 160 " 

Across the Horse Shoe Fall, - - - 114 " 

From the Hotels to Table Rock, . - i^ Miles 

From the Hotels to the top of the [bank, - 100 Rods 
Top of the bank down the Stair-case to the River, '22 '= 

Width of the River at the Ferry, - - - 76 '' 

Up the Canada bank, - - - - 70 " 

From the Falls to the Mineral Springs, - 2 Miles 
To the Suspension Bridge, - _ - - 1^ " 
To the Whirlpool, - . - - - 3 '- 

To the Devil's Hole, 31'' 

To Mount Eagle, 4 '-' 

Depth of water at the edge of Horse Shoe Fall, 20 Feet 

Depth of water at the Ferry, - - - 180 " ^ 

Number of Steps at the Ferry, 290 Steps 

" " Whirlpool, 85 " 

" Devil's Hole, 64 - 

" " 3It. Eagle, 90 '■'■ 

" " Eiddle Stairs 115 ''■ 



i 

NEW GUIDE TO THE 

NIAGARA. 



■■ How dreadful is this place!" for God is here ! 
lis name is graven on the eternal rocks, 
'.s with an iron pen and diamond's point; 
■Vhile their unceasing floods his voice proclaim, 
Jft as their thunder shakes the distant hills. 

O ! if the forest trees, which have grown old 

In viewing all the wonders of the scene, 

Do tremble still, and cast to earth their leaves,— 

Familiar as they are with things sublime — 

Shall not the timid stranger here unloose 

His sandals, ere he treads on '■'• holy ground," 

And bow in humble worship to his God'? 

For unto such as do approach with awe, 
This bright creation of the Immortal Mind, 
Methinks there comes, amid the deafening roar 
Of " many waters," yet a " stilJ small voice," 
Which saith, " V"e children of the dust, fear not,- 
Know that this God, this awful God, is yours I'' 

Yes, here have wrath and peace together met— 
Justice and Mercy sweetly have embraced ; 
For o'er the terrors of the angry flood, 
The bow of promise and of beauty hangs, 
When in the sunbeams, with its matchless hues 
Or as a silver arch on evening's brow. 
Saying, " God's works are marvelous and great, 
But ah ! v^hen understood, his name is Love," 



TALIS or -NIAGARA. 



NIAGARA FALLS 



Are situated on the Niagara Ri^er, ^bich unitcg 
Lake Erie and the upper lakes with Lake Ontario 
and the St. Lawrence. The river is thirty-five 
miles in length, and from one-half mile to five or six 
in width. The banks of the river vary in their 
height, above the Falls, from four to one hundred 
feet. Immediately below the Falls the precipice i,^ 
not less than two Lundred feet, and from thence to 
Lake Ontario gradually diminishes to the height of 
twenty-five or thirty. The Niagara river contains 
a number of islands, the principal of which is Grand 
Island, ceded to the state of Now- York by the 
f5eneca Nati<3n Indians, in 1815. This island is 
twelve miles long, and from two to seven broad. 

The Falls are situated below Grand Island, about 
twenty miles distant from Lake Erie, and fourteen 
from Lake Ontario. At Chippewa creek, three miles 
above the Falls, the width of the river is nearly 
three miles, and its current extremoly rapid. From 
thence to the Falls it gradually narrows to about 
one mile in width. The descent of the rapids has 
■been estimated at fifty-eight feet. The course of 
the river above the Falls is north-westwardly, and 
below it turns abruptly to the north-east, and flows 
about a mile and a half, when it assumes a northern 
direction to Lake Ontario. The cataract pours over 
a summit in the form of a crescent, extending some 
distance up the stream. The sheet of water is 
separated by Goat Island, leaving the grand fall on 
the Canada side, about six hundred yards* wide, and 
the high fall on the American sidoi^ about three 
hundred. The fall on the American side drops al- 
piost perpendicularly to the di^ance of one hundred 



S^ NEW GUIDE TO THE FALLS^. 

and sixty-four feet. The grand or horse-shoe fall, 
©n the Canada side, descends to the river below m 
the form of a curve, one hundred and lifty-eighi 
feet, projecting about fifty feet from the base. The^ 
whole height, including the descent of the rapids 
above, is two hundred and sixteen feet. 

About a quarter of a mile above the falls, a bridge 
has been constructed from the shore to Bath Island, 
which is connected by means of another bridge, with 
Goat Island. The sensation in crossing these bridges 
and particularly the first, over the tremendous rapids, 
beipieath, is calculated to alarm the traveller for his 
safety, and hasten him in his excursion to the island'. 
On Bath Island, mills have been erected, contiguous 
to what is termed the race-way^ which divides Bath 
from Goat Island. The latter, which is three hun- 
dred and thirty yards broad, is principally a wilder- 
ness. On the southern and western banks an ex- 
tensive view is had of the rapids above and of the- 
grand fall on the Canada side. But the best view 
of the latter is obtained from a small bridge, which 
has been erected from. the island to the Terrapin^ 
Rocks ^ adjoining the falls, three hundred feet from 
the shore. 

At the foot of Goat Island is what is called the 
Biddh stair-way. This affords a safe and' easy pas.- 
sage to a position more favorable than any other, for 
viewing this great work of nature. 

The amount of water which passes over the re- 
spective falls, has been estimated at more than 
100 millions of tons an hour. No method can be 
devised for ascertaining the depth of the principal 
fall; but it is pet improbable that it may be six or 
SCO feet, as the depth of the^treamhalf a mile 
%2low is from 2.50 to g6Q feet. 



GUIDE BOOK 

OP 

NIAGAEA FALLS 




GOING THE ROUNDS. 



FERRY— POINT VIEW. 

On arriving at the Falls, on the American side^ 
and the choice of Hotels is made — or you at once 
are induced to take one of the many conveyances 
direct to the Suspension Bridge — or desire first of 
all to cast a hasty glance at the Falls; — if the latter 
is your decision, then take Fall- street and pass the 
old Buffalo and Niagara Falls Railroad Depot, and 
enter the grove beyond; the road which passes 
through the grove will soon lead you to the Ferry 
House and Point View. 

No one having time should omit crossing the 
river ; no where does a person realize the height and 
grandeur of the Falls, as from the ferry lx>at. 



10 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

POINT VIEW. 

Here you have the whole mass of falling vv at^rs 
1>efore 3^ou. Point View is unquestionably the best 
place for you to first approach the great cataract, 
and cammands the best view of the Falls. Abbot's 
Point, the last residence of the Hermit of the Falls, 
is near this spot, which was selected by him from 
among all others, to sit in his cabin with his guitar 
in his hands, to chant his favorite airs to the Godde^ 
of Niagara, with none but his pet cat and dog as 
listeners. 

CATARACT POINT, 

From Point View descond the rise of grounds to the 
point called " Cataract Point-,''^ you can with safety 
descend the bank at this point; there is no point 
about the Falls that has more attractions than this. 
You can better appreciate the height of the Ameri- 
can Falls at this place, than any other on the top of 
the bank, as you are neaidy on the level of the wa- 
ter, and can watch its descent, until the sheet dashes 
into spray on the rocks below; and if your stay 
-should be prolonged at- the Falls, you could not be 
satisfied by once vi&iting Cataract Point. From 
this ascend the steps to the level above and proceed 
to the waters edge at the American Fall, this is 
called " Table Point;" at this point, you may by 
carefully holding on to the bushes, lean forward and 
view the chasm below, into which the water empties. 

BATH ISLAND. 

After viewing this scene to your satisfiiction, take 
the path directly on the bank of the river up the 
stream, until you arrive at a bridge that crosses the 
rapids to Bath Island. This is called Path Island 



fALLe OF NIAGARA. V3 

Bridge. Cross tlie bridge, enter the toll house, pay 
twenty-five cents, register your name, and this will 
entitle you to cross and recross as often as you like 
during your yisit, or for the current year. 

On one of the piers of this bridge was found the 
bonnet and shawl of Mrs. Miller, who disappeared 
so mysteriously from the Eagle Hotel of this village 
in November 1850. 

GOAT ISLAND. 

Proceed from Bath Island across the Bridggj 
which takes you to Goat Island. Ascend the bank 
and take the road to the right, pass on to the " Hog's 
Back," which is the extreme point of the Island, 




hog's J3ACK 



Nearly under this pointy between the Biddle Stair- 
case and the Cave of the Winds, Doct. Hungerford 
of West Troy, N. J,, <W8.^ killed by falling rocks 
.while viewin^ithe.F^,]^ |2:o'm below, in May, 1839. 



14 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

CENTRE FALL. 

Descend the bank by tlie path at this point, to 
the Cascade or Centre Fall. By looking directly 
across this centre fall, you will discover three Pro- 
files under the edge of the American Fall. Pass 
over the narrow bridge, and you are on Luna Island. 

LUNA ISLAND. 

Cross to the opposite side of Luna Island and you 
reach a point which affords you the best view of the 
American Fall. 

At this spot in June 1849 occurred a most heart- 
rending accident. Mr. Charles Addington, a young 
man of much promise, in the midst of a party of 
joyous friends, advanced to a little girl, the daughter 
of Mrs. DeForest, who was also present, and touch- 
ing her playfully on the shoulder, said, " I am going 
to throw you in;'' the effect of which was to cause 
her to spring forward, and loosing her balance she 
fell into the water, followed by young Addington. 
He caught her in his arms and vainly endeavored 
to cast her to the shore — a second of time took them 
over the Falls, forever beyond the reach of mortal 
help. Their lifeless bodies were recovered from the 
water beaten rocks below. 

SAM PATCH'S LEAP 

Retrace your steps to the top of the bank. Pro^- 
eeed a few rods up the current, to the Biddle steps. 
You can descend the ste||^, or continue on to the 
Horse Shoe Falls. At this point Sam Patch made 
two leaps, from a platform raised on a ladder, 96 
feet above the water's edge. 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 



15 













Yiev/ looking down the River 



CAVE OF THE WINDS. 

At the bottom of the stairway you will find two 
paths leading in opposite directions. First take the 
path to the right, down the current. Follow this 
path until you arrive J^p^he Centre Fall. Behind' 
this sheet of water is the " Cave of the Winds." — 
If jou have the curiosity, as many have, to pass un- 
der this sheet of water, into the Cave, you may do 
so. All who visit the Cave of the Winds speak oi 
it in high te<rms» 



u 



New guide to tus 



This Cave is directly under the Central Fall, and 
: is formed bj a projection of the rocks, over which 
the water flows from above. The cave is about 
eighty feet in length, by sixty in breadth, handsome- 
ly arched from the base to the verge of the precipice 
above. This cave has been heretofore inaccessible, 
except by a perilous adventure in a boat from the 
ferry, and landing on the rocks between the Central 
and American Falls, and entering the cave on the 
apposite side, until the spring of 1849, when the 
proprietors of the island, at considerable expense, 
excavated the rocks, erected steps, and contracted 
the stream above in such a manner that this cave can 
now with ease and safety be visited by thos« who 
have the curiosity of seeing all that may be seen, by 
getting thoroughly drenchedVith the falling spray. 

HORSE SHOE FALLS. 

When you have sufficiently studied the sublimity 
and grandeur which this point affords, return to the 
Biddle steps; continue your walk up the agitated 
stream. If the wind should be up the river, pro- 
ceed onjvard to the foot of the Horse Shoe Fall-.— 
Cast your eyes upwards whence this mighty torrent 
comes, then downwards in its dest3ent into the foam- 
ing gulf, and you will be lost in doubt whether to 
wonder most at the grandeur above, or the sublimity 
below. Such scenes are only for silent meditation, 

Horse-Shoe Fall, viewed as a single object, isun*^ 
questionably one of the mo^ublime things in nature. 
It is impossible, by descripwRa, or penciling, to con- 
vey an idea to the reade r of the effect produced up- 
on the beholder. 



TALLS or NIAGARA. I? 



A CRASH. 



On Friday evening, tlie28tli day of April, 1843, 
n large portion of projecting rock, near the Biddle 
^Steps fell, with a tremendous crash, slightly dama- 
ging the Biddle Steps. The laige rock that fell 
measured 25 feet in length, 12 in width and six in 
thickness; it lies directly in front of the steps lead- 
ing down the bank, about half way from the per- 
pendicular bank to the water's edge. There were 
vome very choice minerals obtained from the rocks 
that fell. The steps have since been repaired, and 
visitors may descend them with perfect safety. 

TERRAPIN BRIDGE. 

Returning to the Biddle steps to the height of the 
Island, and taking a little necessary rest, proceed up 
the current until you arrive at a point called "Pros- 
pect place." Descend the bank to " Terrapis 
bridge;" pass over the bridge and ascend an Observa- 
tory 45 feet high; from this height you have an im- 
pressive view of the Falls. A ganthnnan from Troy, 
N. Y., in the winter of 1352, while passing over 
the Bridge to the Tower, fell in^o the river, was 
instantly carried to the Terge of the precipice, and 
lodged between two rocks. Hugh Brewster and k 
Davy rescued him, by throwing some lines in the 
direction; he had just sufficient strength left to tit 
them around his body, and they drew him to the 
Bridge, whence he was taken to th^ Hotel. He re- 
mained speechless for se"jpTal hours, but finally re-- 
covered and returned to his home. 



38 NEW GUIDE TO TIfE 



THE FALLEN ROCK, 



On Sunday February, 1, 1852, a portion of th<? 
precipice, ii«ar the Tower, un the South side of Goa^ 
Island, fell -with a mighty erasli. This portion es- 
tended from the edge of the Island toward the Tower 
being about 125 feet long, and about 60 feet wide^, 
of a somewhat eliptical shape, and reaching from 
the top to near the bottom of the fall. The nest 
day, another piece, triangular, with a base of about 
40 feet, broke off just below the Tower„ But th3 
next great performance was the most remarkable. — ■ 
Between the two portions that had previously fallen 
stood a rectangukxr projection, about 30 feet long 
and 15 feet wide, estendiog from top to bottom of 
the preeipice. This immense m.ass became loosened 
from the main body of rock, and setU'edj)erjpendicular- 
ly ahoid eight feet ^ where it now stands an enormous 
column two hundred feet high, by the dimensioii* 
named above. 

THE THREE SISTERS. 

The three islands near the head of Iris Island, ar& 
called the Three Sisters. The further one of 
this group of islands is the one from which Mr. Joel 
R. Robinson, of this village, rescued a Mr. Allen, 
ia the summer of 1841, who was cast upon its in- 
hospitable shore, in th^following manner: Mr. Allen 
started in a boat for Chippewa (three miles up the 
river, on the opposite shore,) near rundown, and 
having the misfortune, fliile in the centre of the 
river, of breakirrg an oar, only one chance of escape 
seemed to present itself, and that was by steering 
Iris boat with the remainiDg oar, to the head of Iri* 
Inland. In this he was disappointed, as he found he 
eoiihi not contend with the rapids. The last resort 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. l:") 

to save lii3 life \vas to make one of this group m 
islands. His boat daslied through the rapids with 
the speedof arac-iborse^near the outer island. ILi 
sprang from his boat, and reached the islaod with- 
out much injury. Having matches in his pocket, h?, 
Btruck a light oq the head of the island, as a signid 
of distress, which was not discovered until the nest 
morDing, whea a smoke was seen curling through 
the tops of the cedars on the island. As soon as it 
was made known that there was a man upon tLi.s 
isolated island, many of the villagers went to th-r 
head of Iris Island, to ascertain, if possible, who the 
unfortunate individual might be; but he could not 
be recognised. 

Upon inquiry, however, it was ascertained, that 
Mr. Allen had started in a skiff for Chippewa the 
evening before, and had not returned; and there was* 
no doubt but that he was the unfortunate individual. 
Mr. Robinson' began making preparations to effect 
his deliverance. The first attempt proved unsuc- 
cessful; but he succeeded in getting a boat across th<i 
rapids, by means of a cord thrown over hj aleadeix 
weight from the adjacent island, with provisions 
BuScient to sustain life until the following day, whtin 
Mr. Robinson effected his deliverance. 

Near the foot of these Islands, on Monday morn- 
ing July 13, 1S52, a fisherman named Dan John - 
son, was discovered sitting in a sail -boat, fast on a 
rock, a few rods below the three Islands, between 
Goat Island and the Ca^pada Shore, some 80 rod-^ 
above the falls, and opposite the centre of Goat L^- 
land and about 40 yards from land. It appears hi 
bad left Grand Island the evening previous for thu 
falls, but being intoxicated, he was unable to man- 
age his boat, and was hurried down the Rapids, and 



20 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

most fortunately for himself, lodged against a rock 
3 a the stream. Notwithstanding his dangerous situa- 
tion, Mr. Joel Robinson, went to his relief, in a 
light skiiF, and succeeded in returning safelj with 
Johnson. In a moment after the man left the sail- 
boat, it started off, and was carried down the stream. 
A purse of considerable amount was made up by tha 
Visitors and Citizens and presented to Mr. Robinson 
for his daring intrepidity in saving the life of a fel- 
low being. 

Near the foot of these Islands! yon will observe at 
your left a road leading hack to the bridge, it is your 
nearest route to return. If you are not pressed for 
time you can pass onward to the head of the island. 

Near the head of the Three Sister Islands, you 
will observe a cascade which was the favorite bath- 
ing place of Francis Abbott, the Hermit of tha 
Falls. 

The first of these is called Moss island, from th© 
fact that it is covered with a heavy bed of moss. 

NxVVy ISLAND. 

People are pleased with the ramble to the hea(5 of 
the island. At this point you will have a view of 
the whole river above the Falls, and the smooth rar- 
face of the water in front. But turning your eye 
to the right or left, you see the rapids in all their 
majesty. The first island you see to the right, near 
the Canada shore, is Navy Island. It belongs to 
Canada, and contains 304 acres. This island was 
occupied by the " Patriots" in the winter of 1837-8. 
Their object was to receive recruits to revolutionise 
Canada. 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 21 



GRAND ISLAND. 



The land on the left is a part of Grand Island, 
12 miles long, from 3 to 7 wide, and containing 17.^- 
384 acres. At the left of Grand Island is Buckhoru 
island; at this point it has the appearance of being 
a part of the same island, as the channel that sepa- 
rates them cannot be seen. These last mentioned 
islands belong to the State of ISiew York. 

FORT SCHLOSSER. 

On the American shore at the left, yoa will ob- 
serve a rude massive chimney, quite too large for 
the small white building around it. This chimney 
is the last remnant of old Fort Schlosser, built by 
the French. It is about a mile distant from the 
head of the Island. 

Schlosser Landing is two miles distant, and is 
noted as the scene of the Caroline affair. This ill- 
fated steamboat while lying moored at the wharf on 
the night of the 29th December, 1337, wassuprised 
by a party of volunteers from Canada, cut out, 
towed into the stream and set on fire. 

RESIDENCE OP THE HERMIT. 

Pass around the head of the island to the Ameri- 
3an channel, until you arrive at a log house fronting 
the rapids. This was the residence of Francis Ab- 
bott for about a year in 1S29. 

RETURNING, 

Now we will recross the Bridge to Bath island. — 
The white building to the left is a Paper Mill be- 
longing to B. Bradley & Co. The two small islands 
above Bath Island are called Brig aad Ship Maud, 



NEW GUIDE TO THE 



from their peculiar shape; there is a bridge which 
conGects Bath Island v/ith Ship Island; the entrancQ 
to this Bridge is at the west end of the toll house.— 
The first small island in the rapids below the bridgo 
riearcst the main shore, is called Chopin's Island, 
from the circumstances of a Mr. Ghapin, of this 
village, having made his escape from the rapids to 
the island — who was thrown from a scaffold whila 
KhingUng the bridge, and was rescued by Mr. Robin- 
son on the 25th of July, 1839. The other islands 
adjacent are variously named; but as there is nothing 
of importance attached to them, names will be of no 
interest. 

Having returned from Goat Island to the maiu 
shore, we will now take the path to the left from th« 
bridge, by the side of the rapids to the Ferry; a dis- 
tance of about eighty rods. 








THE FERRY. 

At and near the Ferry yon will have various and 
Tnagnificent "views of the Anieriean Falls, which tha 
obliging Ferrymen will point out to your bestadvaa- 
tage. 



"^ FALLS OF NIAGARA. 23 

THE INDIAN LADDER. 

ylbout one hundred rods below tho Falls is the 
eldest place for descendm «' to the River, it is called 
the Indian Ladder. The Ladder consisted of a cedar 
tree, iying sloping against the rocks. The natural 
branches, and notches cut in the body of the tree, 
%YerG the only slight helps afforded to those who 
went down. The last person known to have descend- 
ed ^ was a hunter by the name" of Brooks. lie was 
in pursuit of seme game which he had shot that had 
fallen below. He got about half way down, when 
be slipped and fell between twenty and thirty feet, 
and was badly iDJured. 

€ATLIN'S CAVE. 

This cave is situated about three fourths of a 
mile below the ferry landing, on theAmerican side, 
it was discovered in 1825, by Mr. Catlin, of Lock- 
port, and bears his name. The cave is formed by 
ihe constant dripping of lime water upon the mas-s 
that hangs in large quantities upon the rocks, and 
forms it into calearious Tufa. The diameter of iha 
cave is from sis to eight feet, of a circular form, 
having in its bottom a ehrystal fountain of pure wa- 
ter. The entrance is a circular opening, that will 
admit the body of a medium sized man. When 
first discovered, the enterance was nearly enclosed, 
but was enlarged by Mr. Catlin; who upon first 
entering, found some beautiful stalactites, and 
brought them as trophies of his new discovery. 

GIANTS CAVE. 

A few rods below this cave is another, which has 
eometimes been called the Giant's Cave. Tbis cave 
is elevated from ten to fifteen feet above the base of 



24 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

the perpendicular rock, and its entrance is guarded 
by the constant dripping of water; its appearance 
is more like a fire-place than an enclosure; the back 
and sides are completely lined with stalactatite forma- 
tions. If you should wish to enter this cave, yoU' 
@an do so by climbing some poles that have been 
lodged in its entrance for that purpose, by getting 
drenched in passing the threshold; here are to be 
found some beautiful &pecimens of moss in all stages. 
of petrifaction. The best route to these caves is to 
get the ferryman to row you in his boat down the 
river and land opposite the caves, and ascend the 
bank. This mode of getting there you will find both 
safe and espeditious. You can approach them, by 
rambling along under the perpendicular precipice 
over fallen trees, under dripping water; and after a 
Journey of some two hours, reach the cave; bui 
not without some hazard from falling rocks; while 
the passage by boats is perfectly easy and safe. 

NIAGARA FALLS RAILWAY AND FERRY. 

When the Ferry was first established at this place 
the traveller was compelled to descend a perpendic- 
Tilar bank of 90 feet on a ladder. Now there is a 
railway down the bank from the top of the hill to 
the water's edge, laid on substantial masonry — be- 
side the railway is also a direct flight of 290 steps, 
both are roofed over, protecting them from the drip- 
ping water, or any thing falling from above. At the 
head of the railway is placed a wheel of eight feet 
diameter turning in a horizontal position, around 
•which runs a rope 2^ inches in diameter, and 300 
feet in length, attached to a Car at each end, and 
s-upported by puUies, placed at int^iivals down th.^, 
^rad,e. * 



FALLS OF 5IAGARA. 25 

Good care bas been taken to bave excess of streugtli 
in every part oflBte macbinery. It requires? abou« 
two minutes to make tbe transit from tbe top of tb© 
bank to tbe boat landing. 

THE FERPvy AT THE FALLS-. 

Perhaps there is not a sheet of water on tbe globe 
where at first sight the stranger would be leas liable 
to hazard tbe attempt at crossing, than at this ferry. 
Kotwitbstandiug the impression tbus made, tbe fact 
once known that these violent waters have been fer- 
ried for the lasttbirty years — and during that period 
many thousand persons have passed on tbeir ag'tat-ed 
surface without tbe occurrence of accidents — while 
the ferries at Black Rock, Lewiston, Youngstown, 
and Fort ^viagara, each have bad tbeir victims, all 
fears must be dissipated. 

CHURCHES AT NIAGARA FALLS TILLAGE. 

Until of late Churches bave been wanting at th* 
Falls, and many visitors bave been in the habit of 
returning to Buffalo, or of spending Sunday at some 
other place. Tbis is no longer necessary. There is 
ROW a Presbyterian Church, a Roman Catholic, Me- 
thodist, Baptist, and a Protestant Episcopal. la 
St. Peter's, P. E. Cburch, one half of the seats 
are reserved for strangers, and they are made wel- 
«ome in all the ethers. 



25 



:w GUIDE TO THE 
THE DRIVE. 




Having dow conducted you to all the places of in- 
terest in the immediate neighborhood of the Falls 
<>a the American side, we will take a ride to other 
places alike interesting on the same side. 

The Wire Suspension Bridge and Believue Miner- 
si Spring, the Whirlpool, DeviPs Hole, Mount Eitgh 
and Chasm Tower. 

To most of these places carriages run pegularly, 
cr conveyances can at all tinies be obtained. 

There are but few visitants who do not avail them- 
geives of the pleasure of a jaunt to these poiats, and 
ii3 they will necessarily demand from us seme notici 
we will speak concisely cf each. 

VILLAGE. OF EELLEVUE. 

It' is named from the very fine diytant view which 
is presented of tlie- Falls au'l river, and which has 
been greatly admired by visitors. A large Hotel 
has been recently erected at Believue, adding mneh 
to the attractions cf the place, and affording whai 
has been ions: needed, a pleasant stopping; place, for 
vl3itin,2:tbe I - : ' '1 he House 

u '.::d within a 
;:urance to the 
Ike }azt. it is 



strangers' and others visiti 

i.-? a new brick three story buildre: 

few rods of the Bridire/ t^nd at i\ 



road ieadintj; to the stoaaier 1 



T\.T.-- 



leantifn'ly furnMied, has a large pisasaiit dining 
I oom and a parlOT ob tlie first £aor, from wLieh jou 
]x)k OTit Tipoii one of tLa moft magnificent views in 
i3e world — ^^viagara Falls in the distanee, 

A loTclier prospect- God never made, tJirongli a 
]^n», narrow, -jdnding gorge, vrhose "banks are clotli- 
i I in dark ricli green, -R-jth bold points here and tners 
;itting OH"", wliQse.proSie eIiows them covered witn 
umgnine^nt trees, ming one above ihe. otber, dimin- 
i-tive in sppearanee but loftj in reslltj. Far awsj 
s-iretelies the bine waters ef Isia^ra, refecting in 
its plaeid bosom the lofty forest crowned beiglita 
wliieli adorn its sides, till suddenlj the view is Eicp- 
T-ed bj a wbit^ wsU of foaming wster ever irnieli 
ban^ floating like a snow eluudj a wr^tb of mist 
wbieb boveis round it like s erown of glory. Wd 
eanaot do jasiiee to it so we st-op. From the dining 
room we ascend to tbe nest story, wbere tbrongb a 
Fpaeions ball yon can st^p on ic- a bak-sny on eac-b 
side of the bonse and obtain a Sae view of tbs River 
and Bridge. 

Upon the top of tbe hmise is an observat(3frj l^om 
«^bicb is obtainei sneb a view as wonld make an 
artists' eye water, — tbe Falls, — ^tbe' River — tb^ 
Bridge — R-apids ani Wnirlpool, — isore tban saa 'bs 
fc^en from any one point on >^iagara River. 

Fearfcl in ms^estv Ejnd giory thOTiI — 
M^te-lr Tft e strnd &nd gaze upon tliT Sooi, 
As erst the red njan gszed, ere. yet the fcc* 
Of OBT pale fatbexs trod ih.tse soliUsdes, 
£till TiBgs far cp to hca-Fen tbj ssfiity irrrs-?, 
Wlti^h ro3e to bail tbe &>t glad jsors of eeTt33; 
If i?i «ili it cesi^e tiD timr sbfut be cc nicrs 



2S NEW GUIDE TO THE 

SUSPENSION BRIDGE. 

If the eastern story-teller who chl,rmed away the- 
thousand nights, with her enchanting tales, had told 
her eager listeners that in a far off land, which the 
sun began to illume when midnight had settled upon 
them, there was a river containing many times the 
volume of the Euphrates, supplied by inland sea& 
larger in surface than their own happy land, and far 
more extensive in the aggregate than the Persian 
Gulf; whose waters combining the transparency of 
the crystal with the hue of the emerald, flowed on 
through a fertile and teeming land, until it plunged 
perpendicularly down a precipice of rock two hun- 
dred feet high into a chasm two hundred feet in 
depth, and then wound its way forhundreds of miles 
between two great countries into the Atlantic ocean; 
that over this frightful chasm, within view of this 
mighty cataract, men like themselves had conceived 
and executed the project of throwing a fairy-like 
structure composed of metalic cards, over 1000 feet 
in length, drawn from the bowels of the ear^h, re- 
fined, attenuated, twisted and suspended in the atr, 
from shore to shore, forming a highway over which 
men and carriages pass secure and safely. Probably 
the listeners would not have dreamed that the time 
would come when the romance of imagination would 
become the truth of history. 

The work has been done, and thousands have al- 
ready crossed and recrossed. 

The frame columns of this bridge are 65 feet 
high; the wire cables 1000 feet in length; and tha 
liength of the foot wtiy of the bridge, from bank to 
bank, 800 feet. 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 31 

STEAMBOAT LANDING. 




^'^^^^^^^ 

The road descends the high bank at. Bellevae af, 
the rate of nearly one foot in ton, and to the wharf 
it is about half a mile. There lies the trim little 
craft, the Maid of the Mist^ from the deck of which 
when she cuts her way through the gulf of rock 
bound shores more than 200 feet high on either sid ? 
you will have a view of nature in all her grandeur, 
until you approach the Horse Shoe FaDs. Directly 
before you is the great wonder of nature; and not 
more than a hundred yards distant like a mighty 
av*lanche com«s rushing the foaming flood, with o, 
velocity and power, that has caused many a cheek to 
blanch, and bold hearts to shrink. Yet you catch thu 
rainbow of promise, and amidst the boiling, roaring, 
rushing wateVs the gallant steamer bears you safely 
on, and in a few moments rounds to, at her landitig 
place on the Canada side. 

This trip affords the "no plus ultra" view of ths 
Falls. 

MINERAL SPRING, 

The Bellevue Mineral Spring differs in some mi- 
nute particulars from the Harrow Gate Springs of 
England, the White Sulphur of Virginia, and th^ 



32 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

Avon Springs of New York; all of wLich vary in 
slight respects from each other; jet they all have a 
common taste and appearance, and their medicinal 
affinities and remedial powers are of equal efficiency. 

These waters have been used to (^reat advantage 
in many diseases, among which the following are 
enumerated: 

Salt Rheum, Blotched, Ring Worms, Pimples, 
Freckles, and for all eruptions and diseases of the 
akin. Chronic Rheumatism in all its stages; Scrofula, 
Old Sores, StifTaess, weakness, and contraction of 
the joints and limbs from disease, or from wounds 
and bruises. 

For the purposes of the Bath no water surpasses 
this in its medical qualities, it is destructive to the 
small animalculae, that pervade and bury themselves 
in the cavities and pores of the surface, the cause of 
pimples, itching and irritation, and the fruitful germ 
of the most corruptive diseases. These it eradicates, 
leaving the skin smooth, glossy, and giving an un- 
wonted animation both to body and mind. 

The luxurious sensations aiiorded hj the Sul|jhur 
Rath is to some persons so soothing, so sedative, 
that it becomes to them one of the greatest in- 
dulgencies of their lives. 

SUSPENSION BRIDGE MILL. 

This mill, occupying the place it does, makes it a 
«^urioaity. It is propelled by water below the ma- 
cliinery, and is driven by shafts coupled together, 
t!ie whole length of wMch is 270 feet. 

WHIRLPOOL. 

It is a curious and interesting phenomena, arid b. 
vii^it to the Whirlpool should never be omitted. Tin 



tALLS OF NIAGARA. 3$ 

I'iver here makes an abrupt bend, and the force of 
'the water has worn out a very large basin in which 
the water constantly revolves; and in which logs, 
timbers, and other wrecks which are precipitated 
over the Falls, and dead bodies are also often drawn 
into this place, and continue to move romnd with the 
timber and wrecks togethei 



% 



DEVIL'S HOLE. 

This gulf is about half a mile below the Whirl- 
'g)Ool. There is a saw-mill standing at the edge of 
the rock which is carried by the water of a brook 
called Bloody Ran. It has its name from the battle 
that took place there between the Indians and British. 

CHASM TOWER AT MOUNT EAGLE. 

This Tower, erected in the summer of 1849, for 
the sole purpose of extending the view over one of 
the most interesting prospects in the world, is built 
upon a knole of land, called " Mount Eagle.'''' It 
stands close to the perpendicular bank of the Niagara 
river, 100 rods north the Devils' Hole. The top of 
the Tower to which the spectator ascends by flights 
of easy and convenient stairs, is about 400 feet from 
'the waters edge. 

There is no view so complete of the gorge of the 
Niagara river, and the scenery arOund as this; and 
being in the very centre of many great events, it is 
the best point of any other to call to mind the battle 
^grounds of this country, and to describe other inter- 
esting localities, as this site affo^rds a just conception 
of their relative positions, whether hi-d from view or 
seen by the eye. Instead of dispersing through our 
small publication in separate articles, the bubjeets 
-liere noticed, we will, as we behold the varied pro^^ 
3 



34 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

pect from Chasm Tower, with our descriptions, min- 
gle some interesting reminiscences of the past. 

1st. At the north the ejre passes across Lake 
Ontario, 40 miles, and by the help of the Telescope 
in clear weather the City of Toronto can be observ- 
ed. In April, 1813, might have been seen the fleet 
under Commodore Chai||acey, conveying the army 
of Gen. Dearborn to "Mre, now Toronto, and the 
explosion of the guns at the attack, might have been 
lieard and seen. 

2ud. The eye sweeps along the distant shore of 
the lake easterly till the land is lost sight of, and the 
dark expanse of waters appear as boundless as the 
ocean. 

3rd. To the west the view extends to Burlington 
Bay and the head of the lake. 

4th. Four miles east of Fort Niagara is the Four 
Mile Creek. At the mouth of this creek the British 
regulars and Provincial auxiliaries landed and en- 
trenched themselves in 1759, in their advance upon 
Fort Niagara, then in possession of the French. — 
At this creek also. Col. Chrystie landed *vith his regi- 
ment in 39 batteaux, in October, 1812, a few days 
before the battle of Queenston. The Colonel was 
taken prisoner in that battle, and his regiment that 
were not killed!, were also made prisoners. And 
here may be mentioned a most singular want of man- 
agement in providing boats for the conveyance of our 
troops from the American shore to Canada on that 
occasion. A large number of batteaux had been 
built at the Falls for this expedition, yet 13 boats 
•were only ready. The forces were ferried over in 
these, but as day dawned, and the enemy were en- 
abled to direct his fire, many of them were soon dis- 
abled, and before the battle was over the whole wera 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 35 

wrecked, destroyed or lost. The 39 boats of Chrystie's 
corps at the Four mile creek, only 11 miles distant 
lay unused; and those built at the Falls were noticed 
a few days after, strung along the road at different 
places to to the very brow of the mountain. No 
doubt the disaster which happeaed at Queenston 
was helped on by the want of means of transporta- 
tion. ^ 

5th. The ruins of Fort George, distant 8 miles, 
are now but just discernable, so completely are the 
wOi-ks dilapidated, yet at the commencement of the 
war, the Fort was the strongest and most complete 
fotrification of any this side of Quebec. 

6th. The village of Newark, now known by the 
name of Niagara, is seen between Fort George and 
the lake. The battle of the 27th of May, 1813, 
took place near the Lake shore, a mile west of the 
village, and was for our arms a most brilliant affair. 
For three days previous an incessant fire of red hot 
shot had been kept up from Fort Niagara, the salt 
battery at Youngstown, and the other batteries, on 
this side, upon Fort George and the British works; 
and nearly every building oocupied by their troops 
was rendered untenable, or was burnt down. At 
gun rise on that day the American fleet was anchored 
out in the Lake, and two hundred boats under cover 
of the fire of the fleet, proceeded towards the shore; 
at the same time a terific cannonade was kept up 
from the American side. This scene, with the glo- 
rious sun just rising, clear and effulgent, is described 
by those who beheld it, as being inexpressibly grand 
and absorbing the very soul with the intensity of the 
emotions which it excited. The troops landed, 
rushed up the bank, and their impetuosity soon drove 
t\iQ enemy from the field. 

7th. A mile from the Fort on the American sido 



NEW GUIDE TO THE 

is Youngstown, where was a large, effective battery, 
called the " Salt Battery;" having been at first made 
with about 500 barrels of salt, covered over with 
earth. It mounted two 18 pounders » 

Sth. Three miles this side of Fort Niagara is one' 
of the old battle grounds of the French and English 
in which, in 1759, the English gained a most deci- 
sive victory over a bad;^of about 1500 men, who 
were on their way from the western posts of the 
French to reinforce the Fort. 

9th. The Five Mile Meadow, a mile farther up 
the river. At this place, after the American victory 
obtained at Fort George, the Dragoons belonging to 
the army crossed in scows, but the enemy was not 
pursued. They made good their retreat, with their 
arms and some of their artillery and stores. 

10th. Part of Lewiston is seen, but Queenston 
lies under the brows of the hill, and is hid from ?ight; 
but where the steam ferry boat now crosses the river 
the troops were ferried over to the battle of the 13th 
of October, ISiS^ The conflict commenced between 
one and two o'clock at night, and continued till four 
o'clock ifi the afternoon. Gen. Solomon Van Rens- 
selaer was wounded and disabled from advancing at 
an early part of the engagement. He seated him- 
self about half way up the high bank of the the 
river, on- an extreme point to be seen ^^om this place 
and called over with a loud voice for his comrades in 
arms to advance to the battle. 

Just above where the ferry boat now crosses is the 
Lewiston Suspension Bridge. 

11th. In full view raises up Brock's Monument, 
broken and shattered, from the heights of Queenston. 
The General and his Aid, McDonald, rest beneath 
its fonndation. Brock met his fate about fifty rods 



FALLS OF TTIAGARA. 37 

V>elow the monnment, near a cherry tree on the side 
of the hill in the rear of Queenston. Below the 
Tnonntain and beyond Qneenston, on a point of land 
above the river, is the remains of Froman's battery; 
it did great execution on the day of the battle, and 
at the close of the tragic result, Trhen many vainly 
attempted to swim the ri^. 

12th. On the Lewiston ^ghts was a heavy battery 
called Fort Grey, in sight, a mUe and a half from 
the Tower — it was named after Csl. Grey of the 
army under whose direction it was bnilt. A con- 
stant but not rery eiiective fire was kept np from it 
during the battle of Qneenston. 

13th. From the commanding site of the Tower, 
Niagara river is viewed for 11 miles, commencing 
at the "Whirlpool, and mnning torrent-like throngh 
its deep chasm to the termination of the mountain 
ridge ; thence to Lake Ontario the current is strong 
and unless agitated by the wind, is smooth and clear. 
Just as it connects with the lake, the email point cl 
land on which old Fort Niagara stands, and where 
the American Flag is stiil seen to wave, jets from 
the east and intercepts the eye from the river as it 
enters the lake. Of the many great and astounding 
events that have taken place at the this old fort they 
eaimot be enumerated in this short detail of localities. 
• 14th. At the base of the tower passes the old 
Portage road, the oldest road in the country, and 
first travelled and formed by the French It is now 
converted into a plank road to run from Lewis- 
ton landing to the F alb . The location of the respee - 
tive terminations are in Tie^r. 



^8 



NEW GUIDE TO THE 
INDIAN VILLAGE. 




15th. Three miles from the Tower is the Tu&ea- 
rora Indian village, the intervening wood prevents 
it being seen. These Indians are partly christianiz- 
ed: they have considerable taste for music with good 
voices; and their women employ mitch of their time 
in the manufacture and sale of bead work. 

16th. On the fourth farm north from the Tower, 
on the Portage road, lived a man by the name of 
March. In the war his family had escaped, and 
he was preparing to leave, and was harnessing his 
horses, when a party of British Indians rushed upon 
him and slew him. Some American stragglers aliout 
two weeks after, venturing back and wandering ovar 
the desolation which had been made, found the hogs 
subsisting on the remains of their owner, which 
they gathered up and inten-ed. 

17. Within a stone's throw the road formerly 
passed down a ravine towards the bank of the river. 
Here in 1759 took place a celebrated and bloody en- 
counter, called the battle of the Devil's Hole, be- 
tween a body of Seneca Indians, who had formed an 
ambush in the surrounding woods, and 100 Britishg 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 39 

escorting cattle and provisions. The wLole number 
©f the British, excepting four, were killed, or cast 
down the banl-, lo perish The bones of the slaugh- 
tered are yet found on the rocks below, two skulls 
were picked up in 1S49, ninety years after the cn- 
gagment. 

18. The farms around the Tower, a fair sample 
of this country, have a fine and garden like appear- 
ance, and are not surpassed by any in rural worth 
and beauty. The waiving fields of grain, the velvet 
like pastures, the towering and unsubdued parts of 
forests of centuries which slill on some sides close 
in the scene, give interest to the beholder; and the 
comfortable mansions of the inhabitants embowered 
in fruit and shade trees, evidence to the mind that if 
there is comfort in this world, it is to be found in 
such retreats as these. 

19. Opposite on the Canada side lies the township 
of Stamford, a fine tract of country, thickly popula- 
ted and in a high state of cultivation. The village 
two miles to the west is hid by the woods. Eight 
miles still to the west is the Beach woods or Beaver 
dams; there Lieut. Col. Boestlcr, in 1813, with be- 
tween five and six hundred men unfortunately allowed 
himself to be surprised and surrounded by the snemy. 
What were not killed of the whole body were made 
prisoners. Thiitv miles still west to Stoney Creek, 
another spot long to be remembered among the un- 
fortunate afikirs in which we sufiered during the pro- 
gress of that war. The enemy succeeded in captur- 
ing two Generals, a portion of the troops and of 
driving back the Americans with a heavy loss. This 
disaster, after which followed Boestler's just mention- 
ed, totally eclipsed the brilliant prospects with which 
the campaign had opened. From that time our 



40 NEW G¥J'DE TO THE 

arms were put upon the defensive; next followed" 
retreat from the shores of Canada; then the invasion 
of the American side, the loss of Fort Niagara; and 
the devastation and depopiilatian of fifty miles of 
this frontier. 

20. Those three objects at the south west which 
are seen to. spire above the woods are observations 
built upon the ground of the bloody battle of Lundy's 
Lane. It took place on the 2&th of July 1814. — -- 
The action lasted from 5 o'clock in the afternoon 
lantil 12 o'clock at midnight, when both armies re- 
tired from the field. Americans were under the 
command of General's Brown, Scott and Ripley; the 
two first were wounded and were obliged to retire be- 
fore the close of the action. Gen. Drummond, who 
commanded the British, returned to Forts George 
and Niagara, and the Americans returned back to- 
eamp at Bridgewater, one mile above the Falls. — 
The reported loss on both sides -differed only 27. -r. 
The Americans having that number less. Both 
parties claimed the victory. 

21. Casting the eye to the south is seen the spires 
of the churches and cupaloes of the hotels of the 
village of the Falls. The rapids just above the sheet 
of water aie seen waiving and sparkling through the 
wooded beach of the river, and the spray rising' 
gently over the great Cataract. Two miles beyond 
the Falls and hid by the woods of Goat Island is the 
battle field of Chippewa. This battle took place on 
the5th of July, 1814. General Brown commanded 
and under him vrere General's tScott and Porter, 
who eminently distinguished themselves in that en- 
gagement, drove the enemy from all his positions, 
^nd obliged him to retreat. 

Twenty miles beyond is Fort Erie on the British 



PALLS OF NIAGARA. 41 

side, and Black Rock and Buffalo on the American, 
all these places are memorable as scenes of warlike 
action— of assault, bastions blown up, reciprocal in- 
vasions, day and night attacks, sortise, rapine and 
destruction. 

Within this classic circle over which the eye and 
memory range, has been witnessed bloodshed, pil- 
lage, devastation, and conflagration upon conflagra-* 
tion, spreading one wide scene of ruin, and human 
suffering unknown to any country in modern times. 
These appaling scenes of the last war began in the 
burning of Newark, in Canada, in December, 1814. 
This was done by the Americans under General Mc^ 
Clure. They had also sometime before burnt the 
village and mills at Bridgewater two miles above the 
Falls. Fort Niagara was taken by Col. Murray on 
the 19th of the same month. And then Youngs- 
town, Lewiston, the Tuscarora Indian village, Man- 
chester, Schlosser, Black Rock, Buffalo, and the in-?, 
termediate farm-houses, were burnt as tbey fell into, 
the enemy's hands; and of the inhabitants, those who, 
did not fly, were not spared. In July the next year 
after, the Americans burnt the pleasant little village 
of St. Davids, two mileis west from Queenstown. 

Here has been fought the greatest number of bat- 
tles of any spot in America, and more human life 
has been lost. 

The victims of war within this circle of forty 
miles, of French, English, Indians and Americans, 
inclusive of epidemics, and diseases, incident to \\ar 
cannot be estimated at less than 80,000. 

Such has been the awful deeds, the heart render- 
ing scenes that have been witnessed here, but all is 
changed. The contrast is great. Phoenix-like 
towns and cities have again arisen, the busy hand of 



42 NEW GUJDE TO THg 

improvement has already accomplished much, yet 
her work is just begun. Suspension bridges, rail- 
roads, the Erie canal on one side, its deep rock cut- 
ting, and on the other the Welland ship canal con* 
necting Erie with Ontario. Within the same circle 
are the cities of Buffalo, Toronto and Hamilton, and 
there soon will be the cities of St. Catharines, and 
Lockport, and villages too numerous to mention.—^ 
The world may bu challenged to show greater works 
or more noble enterprises than is presented within 
these limits. 

With the great Falls of Niagara, the extraordi- 
nary capacity of this portion of country, and its great 
adaptation to the enterprize of man, no limit can ba 
set, and no true conception can be formed of its fu- 
ture greatness. If so much has been done in the 
infancy of the country, what may not be anticipated 
with its unrivaled advantages, of its maturity. 

CANADA SIDE. 

Though we have incidentally referred to many 
things belonging to this side, and which will not need 
repeating, yet we shall be happy to accompany the 
inquiring tourist still further, and furnish him with 
a full epitome of the various objects of attraction to 
be found in this locality. 

LOCAL DISTANCES. 

From the water's edge, to tbe Clifton House, IGO rods 

From the Clifton House to Table Rock, 220 " 

From Table Rock to Lundy's Lane battleground, — U miles. 

To the Burning Spring, . 2h '' 

To Chippewa, . . . 3 " 

To the Whirlpool, -.-. 4 miles. 

To Brock's Monument, 7 " 

Number of Spiral Steps near table Rock, 87 



FALLS OF iS'IAGARA. 



45 



Should we take our course from the Ferry, there 
is a carriage road which passes up the bank. Hacks 
are always to be obtained, and you can either walk 
or ride. The Clifton House stands at the top of the 
bank, aiid should you feel disposed to call you will 
find yourself pleased with your reception and enter- 
tainment. 

You will now proceed up the stream, and just this 
side of the Museum, Miss Martha Rugg, in com- 
pany with another lady and a gentleman, on the 24th 
of August, 1844, passed along the bank. A flower 
or branch attracted her attention; she stepped aside 
to pick it; her foot slipped on the edge of the pre- 
cipice and she fell on the rocks below. When reached 
she breathed, but soon expired. 

A little further up, is 

BARNETT'S MUSEUM. 




Of natural and art'fi 
patronage. The y ' 
represents a foK^^i- ^ 
thousand specimou- 
peds; birds, fishes. 
and Indian curiosit . 
may also be seen. 



A e 
: B 



lOi-nos; a place deserving 

iiicably arranged, and 

,!iii!g upwards of teri 

b'peds and quadrU- 

\s, shells, minerals, 

ion of livins: snakes 



"S, and an endless 



46 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

Tariety of Birds. Attached to the Museum is a 
Camera Obscura, Green House and Garden. One 
of the best views of the Falls is obtained from the 
piazzas of this Museum. Mr. Barnett keeps a good 
house of refreshment, and an assortment of Indian 
work for sale, and is polite and attentive to visitors. 
Near the Museum is a spiral stair-case, construc- 
ted for the purpose of enabling visitors to descend 
and pass behind the sheet of water. Dresses for the 
purposes are furnished by Mr. Barnett. 

PROSPECT HOUSE. 

A few rods from the Museum, is the establishment 
of Mr. S. Davis; ever aiming to gratify the public, 
he has erected a Camera Obscura and Observatory 
upon his grounds to aid visitors in looking over the 
river and falls at this point. Mr. D. furnishes 
guides and dresses to those wishing to pass under the 
sheet of water. 

TABLE ROCK. 

Proceed a short distance further, to a building 
near the Horse Shoe Fall, and you are on Table 
Rock. 

A mass of Table Rook, 160 feet in length and 
from 30 to 40 feet in-width, fell off in July, 1818, 
with a tremendous crash. On the 9th of December 
1828, three immense portions broke from the horse 
shoe fall, causing a shock like an earthquake. An- 
other large portion fell in the summer of 1829, and 
the noise it occasioned was heard several miles; and 
still another in 1850. Yet judging from the publish- 
ed accounts of the falls, which reach back nearly 
two hundred years, there has been but very little re- 
cession of the falls within that period. Some years 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 47 

since the person who kept the winding staris at Table 
Rock, said, that on a certain day, he should put a 
number of kegs of powder in the fissure of the rock 
and blow it offl It would have made a tremendous 
crash, but the gentleman who owned the principal 
interest in the privilege, would not allow it to be 
done, as it would put an end to the charm of the 
place — the visit under the sheet of water. 

From the top of Table Rock House, you have one 
broad and imposing view of the whole falls, and much 
of the scenery of the rapids and islands. 

If you are disposed to descend, you will proceed 
to the spiral stair-case; ai'd if you wish to pass 153 
feet behind the falling sheet, you can do so, the pro- 
prietor will furnish you with a dress and a guide. If 
not, you can descend the steps, take the path to the 
right, and go to the edge ef the falling sheet. Above 
you hangs Table Rock — a fit place to think of the 
Eword of Democles. 

It was upon Table Rock that these beautiful lines 

of Mrs. SiGOUENEY were written: 

Flow on, forever, in thy glorious robe 
Of terror and of beauty. God hath set 
His rainbow on thy forehead, and the cloud 
Mantles around thy feet ; and he doth give 
Thy voice of thunder power to speak of Him 
Eternally — bidding the lip of man 
Keep silence, and upon thy rocky altar pour 
Incense of sweet praise. 

When satisfied with the scene above, below and 
around you, retrace your steps, and if you think 
proper to avail yourself of every advantageous point 
of view, ascend to the promenade on the top of the 
Clifton House, where you can revel in thoughts of 
this exhibition of nature's sublimity and power. 



48 NEW GUIDE to tilE 

BURNING SPRING. 

One mile up the river. The water is in constant 
ebulation; from it issues a stream of hydrogen gas, 
which quickly ignites by the touch of a burning 
match. 

LUNDY'S LANE BATTLE GROUND. 

Two Observatories, before alluded to, designate 
this ground. These observations invite the patron- 
dge of the stranger, they were built for his accom- 
modation, and the prospects which they afford are 
pleasing and extensive. 

For carriages to these places, or any others which 
the traveller is disposed to visit on this side, he will 
find it to his advantage to apply to the Clifton House 
at the Falls, or the Elgin House at the Suspension 
Bridge in Canada. Drivers, acting as guides, rela- 
ting all the incidents connected with tb 3 different 
|)oints, will make your ride more agreeable and in- 
teresting. 

Having decided to return, we pass down, viewing 
that beautiful prospect of the Falls and river from 
Victoria point, and note the varied scenery of the 
rock-bound shores. 

BENDER^S CAVE, 

Is one mile from the Clifton House. Near the top 
of the bank you descend a ladder ten feet, and take 
a path which leads you into the Cave. Returning 
to the upper bank, you will lind ^ough to attract 
your attention until you arrive at the Suspension 
Bridge. If you do not please to stop at the Elgin 
Hotel, you can at your leisure pass the bridge, and 
when over you will find carriages in waiting to con- 
vey you to the Falls. 







OBSERVATORY — LUNDY S LANS, 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. ' 51 

THE WHIRLPOOL. 



k 



View of the Whirlpool. 

The Whirlpool is three quartsrs of a mile, by the 
bank of the river, north of the Village of Bellevue; 
but by the road and gate, by which travellers always 
resort to it, it is a quarter of a mile farther. 

It is impossible to give anything like a description 
of this place that will convey an adequate idea of the 
terrific sublimity by which it is distinguished. Asa 
great natural curioiity it is second only to the Falls 
— different, indeed, in every respect, but which no 
one desirous of being acquainted with the Niagara 
Strait, will omit visiting and beholding for himself. 

Though it is much beneath the dignity of these 
scenes to compare their greatness with what is trifling, 
yet for once may the presumption be allowed. — 
The Niagara River is like a juggler or a mountebank: 
it attracts large and enthusiastic audiences, who come 
full of expectation and depart highly gratified. 

The bill of its exhibition is a rhapsody of para- 
doxes: 

It comes, passes, and goes, yet is always before you. 

It is always swelling, yet it enlarges not, nor bursts. 



52 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

It is always boiling, yet its waters are ever cold. — - 
So with its anger — very firm but always cool. 

Though without mental excitement, it is much 
moved and greatly agitated. 

Without feet, it dances; and without an instrn- 
ment it keeps time to its own music. 

It aspires not, and yet its breath arises in waving 
clouds, and wets wiih dew the surrounding trees. 

It weeps without eyes, and moans without passion 
or feeling. 

It cradles and roclis without babies or children. 

Its curtain or sheet is neither spun nor wove. 

It has no cohesion , it is sustained neither by bands 
or cords, yet there it hangs, Btili passing away, and 
still ever hanafino; there. 

In its tremendous leaps it excoeds Sam Pateb, 
yet its greatest leap is a mighty fall. 

After falling, it rolls without wheels, runs without 
feet, springs without joints, contends without arms, 
till at the whirlpool, raging, it suddenly turns round 
and swallows itself Again from its own bowels dis- 
gorged, away it drives, sweeping and roaring, to 
find repose in the bosom of Ontario. 

All this is lightly but not idly said. At tho 
Whirlpool, the current comes rushing from above, 
strikes the Canada shore, whirls to the left, swells 
up beyond, and passes a^/ay. Whatever goes over 
the Falls, or moves down the river, first passes into 
the whirlpool, where it remains for days and weeks, 
driving and whirling around. 

On the 4th day of July, 1843, a small vessel, or 
what had the appearance of one, with steamers and 
colors fiving, was launched in the eddy, on the 
American side of the whirlpool. It moved slowly 
up the stream, making at the eame time its way to- 



TA11.S OF yiACAEA- 

5rard5 1^2 mid!-. -r^!! 2^ T?^?!ied ibee^rreet; is 
tiftga passed rsp: C^Eaia £L<?re: i»?ar- 

ia? iii&t- it rer. - _ :'5sm- Sc^t-e^ rensd 

fe BOine eigiitj r>is, a^i tbe® eirt-^ed the wbirlpc*"!- 
Hiat in as exta^i-: 'r'^ ^^ ' "?. riTer, a3 oljeet i t&n^d 
fro 21 OS.Z fcids tc E2-i E!?t dQva tlie streum. 

a,3 is Usiial, ms:^. ._t - ::j E2^ar action of i2i8 
water at iLis pla^e. Tins eipensiSiit esa <?SiT "be 
ittaie frosa the Amarit^s ^de ; ajad fcrr tEe gratiS- 
catogn of Tisit-are, it is proa^bls tiat it -srili be oe- 
eiiHic-iidlr rex'5Lted. 

la tbes^izaier season omiaibTiB^s ssd oilier csr- 
riazes run rezi: • ' ' - tiie daj, asd at all tiiiiei 



Br:'-': ^7 

p»X. a?-€ It 


-ed. 

?T r. tie t 
-p-iicl: ii 




r inSisT'eii^ 


of 


the Fs^'- tj 
• a't*^?^^^rrl- 


enpsrnBioii; 


_ :.:.^ir die niad 
aiidf^r psrsocal 



Tie Mamt-Ta Rosk, ct ?.t ': Ile ':T:'e*l-e: :*e?£ 
^Sed, th? Fiimatle E,^?:!' t 1 : 

^Nia^Tm rirer. a*:-: ";t °'— : . - . . __ . .: i_: ,- 

Baeat of tne ^r-- - 'j-:L np^m the Terr ts^ 

of the rgsbi2;z :\., _-. _-- isksiediatelr at liae iassg 
of i^e iirh t-liS" TrM^ii f&r2js tiae late:al bosB^bsj «f 
the maideBed waters. 

The ro?^ at some Tearr d^siant -p^nm^ -s&^ms to 
hare ^;^ ~ ^^ :~ lor-e, and in iS3 

desr-ei - - ' as?<li?3" roci. 

li is 2L'-^j-7 LL -jLiejir^ ::^;j T_;:, its apex reaaag 



54 NEW GUIDE TO TPIE 

upon the rock below. It measures nearly a hundred 
feet from the highest point to the water which washes 
its smooth side. The top of this rock is level, and 
is coYered with a beautiful carpet of dark green moss 
and shaded by a flourishing growth of evergreen. — 
The ascent to it is attended with some fatigue, on 
account of the masses of broken rocks that have 
tumbled out of the bank above; and at one or two 
places the visitor has to watch the retiring of the 
swelling flood, and pass quickly over them before it 
returns. 

Those, however, who have visited the place, re- 
turn well satisfied, and express themselves amply 
repaid for all their toil in climbing to it ; for the 
view that here presents itself, is, in the opinion of 
some travellers, altogether superior to any other in 
the vicinity. Even the great cataract, with some 
loses it grandeur, when compared with the pent up, 
waters, as they here rush through the narrow gorge, 
and in their maddened fury dash their white foam to 
the skies, and shrink and swell like the mighty writh- 
ing of some giant monster, in the embrace of the 
rent mountains. 

The towering cliifs on either hand shut out the 
distant prospect, and the vision can take in nothicg 
but 

''Sky and rocks and rushing river." -^ 

Below the eye rests upon the mighty whirlpool, where 
the waters, just escaped from the rocky pass, rush 
and heave and swell, and with the roar of a thousand 
thunders, circle round and round, and rebound from 
bank to bank, forming ijmumeralle deep vortices, 
where every floating object that has escaped de- 
struction above, is instantly sucked down and dis- 
appears. 



FALL« GT NIAGARA. 




DEVIL'S HOLE. 

Three and a half miles from the Falls the road 
*?uns within a few feet of the river's bank, where a 
•deep and gloomy chasm is rent or worn out of the 
rock. This is called the Devil's Hole, and the small 
stream which crosses the road and falls in the chasm 
is the Bloody run. 

Alight from your carriage, proceed to the bank in 
the rear of the saw mill standinsr on the verge of the 
precipice, and you have the Devil's Hole before you, 
and a splendid view of the rapids. After sufficient 
examanation at this pointj you again take a seat iu 
your carriage, and proceed one quarter of a mile 
further, and you arrive at the Little Devil's Hole : 
there has WcAy been discovered at this place a very 
-strong mineral spring, iicpregnated with sulphur: the 
water of which has not as jet been analyzed. 



^ NEW GUIDE TO THE 



BROCK'S MONUMENT, 



This is an edifice built of freestone, 126 feet m 
lieight ; standing on Queenston heights, 6-| miles- 
north of the Falls, opposite the village of Lewiston. 

This monument T^as erected on the spot where the 
memorable battle of Queenston was fought, on the 
13th day of Octaber, 1812, in which the British 
General Brock and his aid de camp McDonald fell •, 
■whose remains were deposited beneath this towering 
edifice. This monument was erected by the Legis- 
lature of Upper Canada, at the expense of about 
$15,000 in honor of their hero, who there fell iis 
battle. On the sight ci the l7th of April, 1840, 
this magnificent structure was blo^sn up with gun- 
powder by some unknown miscreants, and is now m 
complete ruins ; the shaft is split from top to bottom; 
the dome has fallen, with most of the balustrade; the 
table stone split through the centre ; the keystone is 
thrown entirely out; the spiral steps lie at the bottons 
of the hollow shaft, a heap of ruins ; the powder 
was supposed to have been poured into the interior 
of the monument through an opening which waslefl 
in the wall to admit light, the lowest opening being 
some fifteen feet from the base ; the powder w^a 
poured through this opening upon the steps within, 
and a match inserted and fired from the ground, 
which would give the perpetrator a chance to escape 
before the explosion ; the door at the top of the 
monument happened to be open which accounts for 
its not being levelled from the foundation. 

The perpetrator of this deed of shame, in thus 
disturbing the ashes of the illustrious dead, was sup- 
posed to be the notorious Benjamin Lett, who wag. 
setencedto Auburn State Prison, for nine years, for 
attempting to burn the steamer Great Britain, whils 
lying in the port of Oswego, on Lake Ontaria. 




^ 




brock's monument. 



PALLS OF NIAGARA. 59 

LEWISTON. 




American Hotel, and Sieamboat Landing* 

Seven miles below the Falls is tae Tillage of Lew- 
Iston. It lies upon a beantiM tract of country, 
which extends south rrcm the mountain ridge to 
Lake Ontario, and east and west two hundred miles. 

Lewistonj before the building of the Erie Canal, 
was a place of considerable importance. -Upon the 
completion of the canal, this trade ceased, and th« 
Tillage has increased but slowlj. 

The Suspension Bridge, at this point, is ^ne of the 
most remarkable works of ihe day. Spanning the 
Niagara, it is supported by t«n cables— five upon a 
side — resting upon towers of cut stone, the ends 
running into the earth, and secured to anchors drilled 
into the solid rock, six or seven feet. Each cable is 
composed of two hundred and Mtj strands of No. 
10 wire, placed parallel and firmly bound together, 
the whole length, by another wire. The distance 
between the points of suspension, or "span, is one 
thousand and forty feet; width of road-way, twenty 
feet. This, the longest suspension bridge in the 
world", was erected by a few gentlemen upon each 
side of the river, in 1S50, under the superintendence 
of E. W. Serrell, C E. 



60 NEW GUIDE TO THE 



EXPENSES. 



A delicate subject. Some jDeople complain of be- 
ing taxed at every turn. They go on tlie Island tor 
2o cents; on the Whirlpool grounds for 25 cents; on 
Chasm Tower for 12 2 cents; visiting and viewing 
those three unparalleled scenes, they pay but litilo 
more than half as much as they would have to pay 
Ole Bull for an hour's fiddling. There is no imposi- 
tion in this, and it is a fair sample of other like char- 
ges. The 50 cents paid for the trip on the Maid of 
the Mist is very low, and has never remunerated the 
proprietors — the trip is worth a dollar to every man 
who has the money, and can afford to pay it, and he 
should give it voluntarily. As to the Hotels at the 
Falls, it is believed they are not surpassed by any, 
and that their charges, if there is any difference, are 
more moderate, though jasiice entitles them to higher 
rates as they do but three or four months businesa 
in the year. Ferriages, Bridge tolls, Omnibus fare, 
Hack hire. Steamboat and liailroad fare, people 
have to pay every where, and to pay them should 
not at the Falls be considered as peculiar. That a 
(Certain class do practice impositions here, as they do 
every where, is not to be doubted; the experienced 
traveler only can guard against such. The fcura of 
the matter is, that every prudent man can regulate 
his expenses at the Falls, as well as at any other 
place, according to his wishes or his means, without 
grumbling, which is too nearly allied to meanness to 
be practised by a gentleman. 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 61 

SCHLOSSER. 



At Schlosser, two miles above the Falls, was an 
old Frtnjh fort; tins passed into the bands of th© 
English, and an old chimney is still standing which 
belonged to their mess-houise. 

Chippewa, a small Canadian village is directly op- 
posite this place. Just above the village are'tha 
Plains of Chippewa. This was the battle ground on 
the 5th of July, 1814, of the ximericans under Gen. 
Brown, and the English commanded by Gen. Rial. 
At this place two small streams empty into the iSi- 
agara; the upp3r one is called Street's, and ths 
lower and larger Chippewa Creek. 

Jnst below this point, commence the Rapids of 
the Niagara; the descent of the river being fifty 
feet before it reaches the brink of the great fall. — 
Visitors sometimes express surprise at the short dis- 
tance the Falls can be heard ; this depends altogether 
upon the state of the atmosphere. During fine, dry 
weather they are heard but a short distance; but just 
before a storm they can be heard from sixteen to 
eighteen miles. It has passed into a common saying 
in the surrounding country, " We are goibg to have 
a storm, ths Falls roar so loudly." 



62 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

USEFUL COMPENDIUM. 

The Falls are 22 miles from Buffalo, and 14 from 
Lake Ontario. 

Thej are in lat. 43"^. 6' N. and long; 79^. 
P W. from Greenwich. 

The Fall next New York shore is 56 rods wide 
and 167 feet descent Luna Island adjoining is 20 
yards in width, and the Center Fall about 10 yards. 

Goat Island is about 80 rods, and the Horse Shoe 
fall is a i of a mile in a direct line across to Canada, 
or i mile following the curve. This fall has a per- 
pendicular descent of 164 feet. 

It is estimated that 113,510,000 gallons of water 
pass the Falls per minute. 

The depth of the water on the verge of the Horse 
Shoe^Falls is estimated at 20 feet. 

The depth of the water below the Falls is 250 ft. 

The Falls are often distinctly heard at the distance 
of 25 miles; have been heard at Toronto 44 miles. 

The cloud that rises at the Falls has been seen 
from Lake Erie, 100 miles distant. 

Th«? oldest dates found on the rocks at the Falls 
are 1711, 1726, 1745; on a tree on theisland 1745. 

Iris or Goat Island, received its name of Goat 
Island, from having some goats put on it in 1770. 

The river falls from Lake Erie to Chippawa 20' 
ft. From thence to the Horse Shoe Fall (one mile) 
154 feet; from thence to Lewiston 102 feet, making 
the whole descent from Buffalo to Lewiston 321 ft. 

Persons known to go over the Falls formerly was 
about 2 in a year. Of late years the number has in- 
creased to about 4. 

It was sdhe years ago supposed that people could 
ramble up and down these banks, and pass under the 
overhanging rocks with impunity, as no accident had 



FALLS or NIAGARA. 6^- 

happened; but as numbers have increased, accidents 
have occurred. Visitors should be cautious in all 
exposed places. 

It is pleasant to visit Goat Island by moonlight— 
and the Lunar Bow which is formed in the rising- 
spray of the Falls should be seen. 

In the winter season the incrustations of the trees 
with congealed spray forms an unique and peculiar 
scene, on which account, many people declare, that 
the wintry view of the falls is superior to the sum- 
mer view. 

The discoverer of the Falls is not known, the ear- 
liest description of them is by Father Hennepin. 
1678. 

Some people are disappointed upon hearing the 
Falls; they expected to hear a deafening roar; the 
explosion of artillery; the bursting of boilers, or a 
roll of thunder. Still the noise is great; at night it 
is like the raging tempest, and the concussion of the 
falling water always jar the buildings in the neighbor- 
ing village, sometimes less and at others more per- 
ceptibly. 

A stranger was one evening preaching in the Me- 
thodist Chapel; he held on until a late hour, and at 
length observed, "^ you may think lam detaining 
you, but as none would like to venture out in th& 
isevere storm which is prevailing, I shall continue my 
remarks. " One of his hearers looked from a window, 
and saw the clear moon peeping through the branch- 
es of the trees, which were not disturbed by a breath 
of wind. It was the storm like roar of the FalU 
that had deceived the speaker. 

The Rainbow, so distinguished to the ^lls, is seen 
on the American side in the forenoon, and oa the 
Canada side in the afternoon. 



M NEW GUIDE TO THE 

CAVE OF THE WINDS. 

This cave was first discovered by Joseph W. In- 
graham, Esq., who gave it the name of the Cave of 
the winds. 

it was first entered by Mr. Geo. Simi3 and Mr. 
B. H. White of Niagara Falls village. They passed 
over the rocks, and through a part of the sheet of 
water. It was, they alleged, difiieult and hazardous, 
but they acknowledged themselves fnlly rewarded in 
the new and magnificent scene which the lofty cavern 
presented. It is near one hundred and twenty feet 
wide, about thirty feet deep and a noble arch hang- 
ing over head eighty feet high and the sheet of water 
rolling in front. 

This cave has been heretofore inaccessible, except 
hj a perilous adventure in a boat from the ferry, 
and landing on the rocks between the central and 
the American Falls, and entering the cave on the 
opposite side, until a few years since, when the pro- 
prietors of the island, at considerable expense, ex- 
cavated the rocks, erected steps, and contracted the 
stream above in such a manner that this cave oan 
now be visited with ease and safety. Guides and 
oil eloth dresses can be had on the island, forpasfing 
to the cave ; and in going under the sheet of water 
in the afternoon, v/ben the sun is shining a perfect 
circular rainbow is visible. 

Visitors can pass out and stand in front, from 
which the view is grand and sublime. 

One great curiosity of the Cave of the Winds, is 
the innumerable quantity of eTs that may be seen 
upon first entering, piled in heaps, basking in the 
riishing spr»y, but immediately disappear in the 
rapids upon any disturbance. 








l>^ 









•t* 



PALLS OF NIAGARA. 67 

FRANCIS ABBOTT. 
THE HERMIT OF THE FALLS, 

This fcingular p'irsonage made his appearance ia 
the village of Niagara Falls, oa the ISth of June, 
1829, in the afternoon : he was a roan of prepossessing 
appearance, dressed in a long loose gown, under his 
arm a roll of blankets, a port-fulio, a fiate and a 
large book, which constituted his baggage. His sin- 
gular appearance attracted the attention of all who 
saw him; he passed the gazing crowd without paying 
the least attention; repaired to a sniall inn in the 
lower part of the village, engaged a room of the 
I andlord for a week ; in his stipulation with the land- 
lord, the room he occupied was to be his own ex-^ 
clusively, and but a part of his food was to be pre-, 
pared by the family. He then repaired to the vil- 
lage library, gave his name, borrowed books, and 
purchased a violin : shortly after he visited the li- 
brary again, expressed his admiration of the Falls, 
and the surrounding scenery, and his intention of 
remaining a month, and perhaps more. He shortly 
after requested permission of the proprietor of Iris 
Island, to build a hut on Moss Island, (one of tho 
Three sisters,) where he might live alone, and seclud- 
ed from human society, but was refused : whereupon 
he took up his residence in a small room in the log 
building standing near the head of Iris Island. — 
Thus near two years, he enjoyed in almost perfect 
seclusion, the solitude of this romantic retreat. — 
There are certain spots on Iris Island that are con- 
secrated to his memory: one is near Moss Island, 
(one of the Three sisters,) where *' he trod the 
sentry's lonely round" all seasons of ilte year, and 
all hours of the night : under the little cascade be- 
tween Iris and Moss Islands was his faYorite res ox t- 



6S NEW GUIDE TO THE 

for batliing. At all hours of the night he could be 
seen walking, at a rapid pace from one end of Ter- 
rapin Bridge to the other. At that time Terrapin 
Bridge extended over the verge of the precipice, and 
a single,^ timber eight inches square extended froni 
the main bridge some eight feet ; upon the extreme 
point of this projecting timber, he would be seen 
carelessly sitting at all hours of the night, and some- 
times hanging under it by his hands and feet for ten 
minutes at a time. 

After having passed two winters upon this island 
undisturbed, he left it, in consequence of a family 
Bioving into the house he occupied, and built him a 
rude hut on the main shore, near Point View, where 
he resided until his existence was terminated by 
drowning, near the ferry landing, while bathing, at 
two o'clock, P. M. on'the tenth day of June, 1S41. 
Ten days afterwards, his body was found at Fort 
JN^iagara, fourteen miles below the Falls; recognized, 
brought back, and decently interred in the burial 
ground of this village. After his decease, a number 
of citizens repaired to his cabin; the door was guard- 
ed by his faithful dog, his cat occupied his couch, 
his books and musical instruments were scattered in 
confusion around his hut; but no scrap of writing 
could be found to reveal his secrets ; not even his 
name. 

It is said he composed much, and always com- 
mitted it to paper in Latin, and destroyed them as 
soon as composed. But very little of the history of 
this singular individual is known; he had a highly 
cultivated mind, performed well on various musical 
instruments, liad a prepossessing appearance, but 
his manner of living was extremely fiithy. He had 
a stipend allowed yearly by his friends in England^ 



f«^®s^ 





\ 


\ 1 






fit, 

1 



W 'V. 



Hi 



■) ^ 









il 



%mi^ 



w 



s-H 



lif"'l^ 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 71 

competent to his support. It has since been ascer- 
tained, that he was the son of the hxte John Abbott, 
of Plymouth, England, a member of the Society of 
Friends. The spot where stood the cabin of Francis 
Abbott, is Point View : he selected this spot as a 
favorite view of the Falls. The cause tlitit led this 
unfortunate individual to exile himself from human 
society remain as yet a sealed book. 

BATH ISLAND BRIDGE. 

As the object of this work is to make the visitor 
perfectly familiar with every point of interest con- 
nected with the Falls, without further inrjiiiry, and 
to answer all quasticns that might naturally be asked 
relative to this great natural wonder, and its sur- 
rounding scenery, the author thinks it would not be 
amiss to answer the many inquiries concerning the 
construction of Bath Island Bridge. 

The first bridge from the main shore to the islands 
was constructed in the year 1817, near the Grist 
Mill, across to Iris Island. This bridge was carried 
away by the ice the ensuing spring. In the year 
ISIS, a bridge was constructed where Bath island 
Bridge now stands, by the Hon. Augustus Porter, 
an4 General P. B. Porter, brothers, the proprietors 
of the island. This bridge was constructed in the 
following manner : A substantial pier was sunk at 
the water's edge, and filled permanently with stones; 
long timbers were then projected over this abutment 
the distance they wished to sink the next pier, andT 
were loaded in the rear with a sufiicient weight of 
stone to prevent their poising into the stream with 
any required weight that might be necessary upon 
their extremity while sinking the next pier; to make 
them more safe, legs were framed through the ends 



72 NEW GUIDE TO TITE 



of the projecting timbers, resting upon the rocky 
bottom ; planks were then laid upon the timbeis, 
forming safe but temporary bridge ; a small wooden 
frame was then let down from the end of this bridge 
into the water, and held by means of ropes until "it 
was filled with stones and sunk permanently on the 
bottom; large timbers were thea framed so as to con- 
nect them at the cci'ners, forming an oblong square ; 
these were placed around the small stationary" pi^ri 
one upon the other, until af sufficient height, and 
then filled with stone, thus forming a permanent pier, 
the long projecting timbers were then carried for- 
ward and placed upon the pier, and so onward until 
the bridge reached Bath island. Thus a permanent 
bridge, safe for the heaviest loaded teams, was conr 
gtruGted at the expense of about $2,000, which re^ 
fleets great credit npon the enterprising proprietors^ 
who were the sole projectors. 

In the spring of 1S39, the timbers of the bridge 
were examined, and found to be in a decayed con- 
dition ; and during the summer of the same year 
the present bridge was constructed. It was much 
less difficult to sink the piers of the present bridge 
than the former, although they were sunk in the 
same manner, but having the old bridge to sink them 
from, rendered it less hazardous, and the eommiim- 
cation with the island was not interrupted. 

The present bridge cost near $3, COO: and was; 
repiired in 1S51; it was while this bridge was build- 
ing that jNIr. Chapin was precipitated from a scaifold 
into the rapids, and rescued from the small island 
below, by Mr. Robinson, whicli circumstance ha.^i 
\een mentioned before. 



FALLS OF I^IAC.ARA. 



ICE BRIDGKS. 



In consequence of warm woatlmr in winter, FiufTi- 
cient to break up the ice in JiUke JOiie, it is forcc4 
down the Niagara river in .such quantities, aw to 
completely cover the whole Burfuce of tho river; this 
ioo passing over the rapids, and descending tho fallB, 
is broken into small cakes, and fonns what is t(;rniod 
filush ice; this ice passes down the current in a body 
and partially corigealw, so as to form across the wholo 
width of tho river, a solid body ol moving ice. 'I'ho 
river being much wider near tlie falls than below tho 
consequence is tliat it sometimes stops; after havinj( 
stopped, the running ice alcove passes underneath 
that which is stationar}! in such quantities, that th<* 
whole mass covering tiie river from 'J'alde Koek *u, 
Iris Island, and from iris island to the ferry lan- 
ding (leaving an opening near the American i^'all) 
is raised the height of from thirty to sixty feet; tlk^i 
Surface rougli and uneven from having been thrown 
np from the convulsions of the water beneath, leav- 
ing openings or cracks from one to ton feet in breadth 
and a mile in length. 

On the morning of tlie .'^Oth day of January, 1 842, 
it was discovered that the ice had wedged in upon 
both shores, leaving but a strip some six rods in 
widtlfi only that appeared to move; the friction of 
tho moving ice in contact with the immense body 
that was stationary, was so great, that the noiso 
mingling with tho rush of water and ice over tlwi 
cataract, resembled more a convulsion of the earth 
than the wonted roar of the Falls, I'l^s was the 
most sublime spectacle ever witnessed at Niagara 
Falls. After having ground its course througli theso 
mountains of ice for an hour or more, the proud 
torrent of Niagara was subdued, the ice stopped, and 



74 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

iier green waters were veiled from human vision until 
the first day of the ensuing April, when the proud 
waters, by the hot rays of the sun, once more un- 
veiled their broad surface, and she was again Niagara. 

During the stay of the ice, there was safe crossing 
although the path was very uneven, and people cross- 
ing usually carried, long poles to assist them in pass- 
ing down steep declivities, and crossing the openings; 
from the bank above could be seen people crossing 
and recrossing, in all directions, some with long poles 
making an excursion down the river on the centre of 
the stream, others crossing from the ferry house on 
•the Canada side' to the foot of Iris island, and as- 
cending the Biddle Steps. The rugged path over 
which they had to travel was in many places hazard- 
ous; the towering peaks of ice around which they 
had to choose their path, would obscure them from 
sight leaving the beholder in suspense whether they 
were safe or enveloped in the current through the 
openings in the ice. On the Canada side, near the 
centre of the river, could be seen the sentries, wrap- 
ped in their winter's uniform, " walking their lonely 
round," in a hard trod path, surveying the river 
above and below, to detect, if possible, the deserter 
in his attempt to escape : but notwithstanding the 
vigilance of the guard, from whose position could be 
seen an individual crossing on any part of the ice, 
you could frequently behold the deserter dashing from 
the thicket upon the ice half a mile below, and 
among the whizzing balls from the sentry, make his 
escape unharmed to the American shore. Some 
fifteen or twenty Briti-sh soldiers made their escape 
during the stay of the ice. 

On the American side, near the csntre of the river 
there was a building erected as a house of refresh- 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. 7& 

ment, warniftd by a stove to make their guests com- 
fortable during their sojourn ; the proprietor dealing 
out his refresh uients and receiving his money with as 
much unconcern as though his house stood upon 
terra firma. 

It is not very frequent that the, ice thus stops in 
the Niagara river: It i^ ad never been known to 
stop but twice before in the last twenty-live years. 

In the winters of 3 849 and 1850, ice bridges, 
were formed and remaiiv^d for a considerable time— 
the latter about six weeks. 

INGIDENTS. 

Not a single year passes but there are moro or* 
less accidents of a fatal character occuring around 
the Falls. The one now record;xl is one of the 
most heart-rending that has ev^r been witnessed^ 
from the circumstance of the sufferer having a per- 
fect. knowledge of his approaohhig fate, for one hour 
whilst gliding upon the sv/ift but unruffled bosom of 
the Niagara, for three miles above the rapids and 
fatal cataract. 

On Tuesday, the 16th day of May, 1843, a man 
by the name of Mickey Morgan, a resident of Chip- 
pewa, (Upper Canada) was engaged in hauling sand 
from the river, with a span of horses, three miles 
above the Falls, and two miles above Chippewa; in 
backing his team into the river, (not being aware of 
the boldness of the shore,) his vraggon was precipit- 
ated oil the steep bank, dragging his team into the 
water the depth of several feet; one of the horses 
disengaged himself from the waggon., and swam 
ashore; the other was drowned. The box of the 
waggon floated from the wheels into the stream, with 
Morgan clinging to it; the wind being strong olF 



76 . NEW GUIDE TO THE 

shore, drove the unfortunate man and his frail bark 
into the swift smooth current; a boat was at hand, 
but instead of bein^ manned and sent to his relief, 
was let loose to drift into the stream, and was car- 
ried by the wind above the man, across to Navy Is- 
land ; and as Morgan was no swimmer he could not 
avail himself of the passing boat ; this being the 
only boat within two miles, all hopes of a rescue 
from this point was cut off. The last resort was a 
rescue from the mouth of the Chippewa creek, half 
a mile above the rapids, which might have been 
easily effected with proper management. Had one 
of the bystanders taken a horse and rode in haste to 
Chippewa, and had a boat in readiness at the mouth 
pf the creek, the unfortunate Morgan might have 
been rescued with ease while passing ; but instead of 
taking energetic measures, one of the bystanders 
started for Chippewa on foot, taking the road on 
the bank of the river, passing down, side by side in 
conversation with the fated Morgan, holding out in- 
ducements of a rescue at Chippewa. But Morgai^ 
protested against the practicability of his escape 
from " that fearful leap," constantly exclaiming 
" that he was a lost man, and nothing could save 
him," His predictions proved too true. When the 
mess2nger arrived at Chippewa, no craft larger than 
a small canoe could be obtained, and before that 
pould be brought to the mouth of the creek, the un- 
fortunate Morgan still clinging to the box of the 
waggon, was so near the rapids, that it was consider- 
ed hazardous to attempt the rescue m a frail canoe, 
and the beholders stood like monuments, in death- 
like silence, gazing a vacant stare at his receding 
form, until a shriek from every beholder broke the 
pionotony of the scene— as the rapids engulphed, ia 



PALLS ®r NIAGARA. 77 

their maddened embrace, this unfortunate mortal 
and fellow townsman. 

The conduct of those who were present when the 
accident first occurred, with ample facilities at hand 
■t-o have rescued Morgan, needs no comment ; we 
leave them to their own reflections. Pieces of wag- 
gon were picked up in the eddies below the Falls, 
but the body of Morgan has not been found. 

He has left a wife and several children to mourn 
the loss of a husband and father, by a horri-d death. 

DEATH OF YORE AND KENEDY. 

John York and William Kenedy were two in- 
dividuals who were engaged in illicit importation of 
goods into Canada. They resided two and a half 
miles above Chippewa, in Canada, on the bank of 
the Niagara river. On the evening of the 28th of 
November, 1841, they crossed the river, and landed 
at Schlosser, for the purpose of taking over a load 
of whiskey. They placed six barrels of whiskey in 
their canoe, a heavier load than their boat was capa- 
ble of carrying : of. this, however, they must have 
been aware ; but notwithstanding they were willing 
to risk their safety ; they started out, and while in 
the centre of the river their boat capsized. Kenedy 
being an excellent swimmer, succeeded in making a 
small island near the head of the rapids, called Grass 
Island ; but the night being cold, and he having 
been in the water some time, perished upon the is- 
land, from cold and fatigue. Their cries were heard 
by the residents at Schlosser, but as noises are so 
frequently upon the river, it excited no alarm : thug 
these unfortanate individuals perished by their own 
folly, and I • each a family of children. York, it 
is supposed passed down the rapids, and went over 



78 NEW GUIDE TO THE 

tne Falls, as fragments of bis boat and cargo were 
seen tbe next morning floating in tbe eddy below the 
Falls. Some ten days afterwards, two individuals 
crossed in a boat to Grass Island, for tbe purpose of 
shooting geese, and discovered a human body lying 
on his face some twenty feet from high water mark: 
they took the body in tow and brought it to the main 
shore ; and upon a post mortem examination, it was 
found to be the body of Wm. Kenedy, who started 
from Schlosser on the 28 th of November with a load 
of whiskey, in corapaDy with John York. The body 
having been found upon dry land lying upon its face 
led to the conclusion that he must have reached the 
island alive. 

DEATH OF DR. HUNGERFORD. 

As long as the Falls of ^Niagara have been known 
and visited by thousands and tens of thousands, and 
almost every accessible rock has received the tread 
of the awestruck visitor with impunity, yet Dr. Hun- 
gerford was the individual selected by fate to fall a 
prey to the crumbling rocks in the very footsteps of 
thousands who had there gazed at those scenes be- 
fore him. 

On the 27th day of May, 1839, at about ten 
o'clock in the forenoon. Dr. Flungerford, of West 
Troy, N. Y. in company with Mr. Nile of Columbus, 
O. and their guide, had passed down the Biddle 
steps, and taken the path leading to the Central Fall; 
while passing under Hog's Back Point, they stopped 
to view the river and the American Fall ; as they 
were about to proceed to the Central Fall, the air 
above them was discovered to be filled with falling 
eartk and stones ; all sprang to escape ; the unfor- 
tunate Dr. Hungerford was struck to the ground ; 
lie was raised by his companions and carried to 



FALLS OF NIAGARA. t9 

more secure place ; and upon laying him down, ta 
their great surprise, the vital spark had fled ; he who 
but an instant before was gazing with delight upon 
the wonders that surrounded him on all sides— who 
had written that moment in his sketchbook "I con- 
sider these rocks my enemies," had found his pre- 
diction verified, and with the pencil in his hand, with 
which he left the record, he lay a mutilated corpse. 
The rocks had struck him on the back part of the 
head, shattered his skull and broke his shoulder; he 
breathed his last without the slightest convulsion. 

About ten o'clock Dr. Hungerfsrd passed over 
Bath Island Bridge with a light step, in high spirits, 
conversing in a humorous tone with his friend Mr. 
Nile, upon the survey they were about to make of 
nature's greatest wonder : in one short hour how 
changed the scone ; instead of seeing Dr. Hunger- 
fore returning with a glow of satisfaction upon his 
brow, his body repassed the bridge, lying upon hia 
back, in a cart, his legs hanging over the afterpart, 
and drawn by a crowd of citizens, and not a word to 
break the silence of the funeral march ; his friend 
Mr. Kile, and guide following in the rear — horror- 
struck at the scenes which had passed before their 
eyes the last half hour .of their existence. 

While Dr. Hungerford was standing on Hog's, 
Back, before descending the bank, he made the fol- 
lowing entry in his sketch book : 

" I fear not, I dread not, though cataracts oppose ; 

The rocks that support me, I rend as my foes." 

There is nothing singular in the event that caused; 
the death of Dr. Hungerford ; but it is the first ac- 
cident of the kind that ever occurred at this place, 
and thousands may stand upon that once fatal spot 
and another disaster of the kind may never again be 
witnessed. 



so GUIDE to NIAGARA FALLS. 

Written for the Table Rock Album. 

BY JOHN G, SAXE. 

See Niagara's torrent poiir over the height, 
How rapid the stream ! how majestic the flood 

Rolls on, and descends in the strength of his might, 
^5 a monstrous great frog leaps into the mud I 

Then, see, o'er the waters in beauty divine, 
The rainbow arising, to gild the profound — 

The Iris, in which all the colors combined, 
Like the yellow and red in a calico "gownd !'' 

How splendid that rainbow ! how grand is the glare 
Of the sun through the mist, as it fervently glows, 

When the spray with its moisture besprinkles the air 
As an old loasherwoman besprinldes her clothes ! 

Then see, at the depth of the awful abyss. 

The whirlpool careering with limitless powet. 
Where the waters revolve perpetually round. 

As a cooper revolves round a barrel of flour 1 

The roar of the waters ! sublime is the sound 
Which forever is heard from the cataract's steep ! 

How grand ! how majestic 1 how vast ! how profound ! 
Like the snore of a pig when /fe's buried in sleep ! 

The strong mountain oak and the tall towering pine, 
When plunged o'er the steep with a crack and a roar. 

Are dashed into atoms— to fragments as fine \^ 
As a pipe ichen His thrown on a hard marble floor. 

And O ! should some mortal — hew dreadful the doom- 
Descend to the spot where the whirlpool carouses, 
Alas ! he would find there a rocky tomb, 

^r, at least, he'd be llkcbj to .fracture his "irim'Serr •/" 



LBJl^T 



